Galway was to serve as my jumping off spot to tour the surrounding areas, and for a quick take on the big ones, decided to go the guided tour route. It's ind of nice to sit back and let someone else handle all the arrangements and decisions. I just needed to get on and off the bus at the right times. I can see why a lot of people prefer this when traveling. It's unchallenging, and you know you're seeing all the correct high points.
I booked the Aran Islands/Cliffs of Moher combo pack thru Galway Tour Company for my first full day in town, so if I really liked one or the other, I would still have time to go back and revisit at more length, if I wanted to. This outing would involved the high seas and a lot of heights.
It was a twisty ride thru country roads that seemed ill suited for tour buses as big as ours, but tons of them traversed back and forth none the less. Got the guided banter for all the small towns, some light humor about rocks and a Trump wall reference, all the good stuff. Pulled into Doolin to hop the ferry to Inisheer. Seems were lucked out and scored the brand new express boat which would make the crossing in roughly twenty minutes. Roughly is an accurate term, because that was some roller coaster action on the Atlantic. I think we had fairly calm seas, but at least a few times my heart was in my throat. Didn't get that many photos during the crossing to a very real fear of either me or my camera being pitched over the edge. Got a little sea spray in the face, but at least it wasn't raining.
Inisheer, which apparently just means island, is very quiet. There are less than 100 cars even on the island, and I expect that may mean there is one per family living there. It's mostly horse and traps available to take tourists around the island, and they can make the full circuit in about an hour. I opted to just walk around, so while I didn't cover every sight, I had a nice quiet time poking around the village and finding my way up to the fort and back thru some odd trails. As I mentioned there area few houses, but I didn't really see anyone around. Quiet houses with well kept little yards and laundry drying on the lines. All the people I saw appeared to be tourists like me, just looks looing around. Gotta be strange having your street just fill up with tourists a couple hrs a day, then go dead quiet by 5:00PM.
It's a cool place where two hours was just about enough to take it in, but I could see it serving as a nice retreat. Like if you needed peace and quiet to think thru a project, write a book, stuff like that.
Back to the boat for the long way a back, checking out the Cliffs of Moher from the water side. That trip was a little rougher, but I scored a great, fairly sheltered seat on the top deck. Had a great view of everything, and got to "enjoy" the family bitch session of a group from Boston on one side and a fairly cranky English lady who felt that which ever way she looked people were in her way and should make way for her to have an unobstructed view, which ever direction she wanted that view to be. Ah, other people...
The cliffs are awe inspiring for sure. You can see tiny people walking along the top, and birds swooping everywhere. It seems chunks of the cliffs still break away from time to time, a fact that I was far more aware of when walking along the top. There is a huge cave opening that was featured in Harry Potter somewhere, so now they just call it Harry's cave, which seems a little sad. Surely that cave has been around a lot longer and could have more old times associations to name it after, but they love their Potter.
It was an overcast, slightly foggy day, but a really stunning boat ride overall. Sadly there were more than a few who succumbed to the motion sickness. I heard the on board bathrooms were not a safe place to go. Also, the crew were all just cute as can be, so big thumbs up to the Doolin Ferry Company.
Back on the bus, to head to the top of the cliffs. Our guide was very insistent we be back at the bus on time, otherwise the staff start a search for you. If they don't find you wandering around relatively quickly, then they call in the coast guard. It seems some folks decide to meet their end from that spectacular height, and it would be incredibly easy to do. We only had an hour to walk around, and I could see spending more time. The view from the top is amazing. The official park has lovely wide walkways, well set up view points and a nice firm wall to keep you from the windy edge. However, at the end of the park is an official path that keeps going. There is a small walkway with a low rock barrier a good 10-15feet away front the edge, but clearly over the years plenty of people have walked along the side outside the little wall. You can go right up to the edge and look over, if you're a crazy person. The height and unpredictable wind are ominous as hell, and yet there is a draw to get a little closer, see a little more. I started snugly behind the barrier, but in more solid looking spots, started to venture out a little closer to the edge. After a few great photos, some closer looks, I felt my heartbeat pick up, and remembered that bits of cliff are breaking off all the time. Hustling back to the wall side, I headed back to the bus having played with danger enough for one day.
Back in town, it was time to check out the nightlife properly, and Galway does not disappoint. I did get into McDonagh's (which always sounds like McDonalds when the locals say it), and their fish and chips are awesome. I don't know if I've ever really had it made with truly fresh fish (and you can pick from a list of different fishes to have fried up), and the mountain of chips are so hard to stop eating.
Loaded up with fried goodness, I wandered around looking for music. Stumbled across Busker Browns where they had no less than a 12 piece jazz band in there, full brass section playing swing, torch and jazz tunes. A really great show that wrapped up with Sinatra style cover of Wonderwall about midnight.
Sure, midnight seems like a good time to all it a night, but not for this trip. I have a liver whose limits are not yet truly tested, and I had randomly made out with anyone yet. What kind of Monday night is that to have?
James the tour guide had said the Quays was a good spot for the young people, and while I don't really fit in that category, couldn't resist checking it out. It wasn't all young people, but it did look like the inside of a pirate ship in there. Another big place that seems to have three levels opening into a central area from various directions. I was going to pass it by for the night, but the band was amazing! Three Legged Dog is a local band and they are so fun, in addition to all be hot as hell. It's sort of country/folk thing doing some traditional tunes and some fun covers. I enjoyed the countrified version of Paradise City which somewhat improbably mashed up with the theme song to the Fresh Prince, and anyone who plays songs from the Jungle Book will always have my heart. Weirdly enough they also did a version of Wonderwall, so I was taking in more Oasis in one night than I have in years. If they have an album, I want it.
After the final number, the bar began to empty, and some dude from New York asked me for directions. He was 27 and just getting started on three months traveling in Europe, so it was fun swapping stories on travel experiences. I did more the of the hostel stuff when I was younger, so can identify with the downsides he is experiencing for the first time. Naturally, then he wanted to come back to my place, and I'm finding guys who want to hook up at least in part because they don't like their sleeping accommodations otherwise to be a turn off. I was not interested in sleeping with this dude, and his claiming to have no idea how to find his hostel again was not the sympathy winning gambit he was shooting for.
Sigh, bring something useful to the table, guys. You need to be really hot or super charming. Funny or talented can also draw my attention, but while I was laughing at him a lot, it was just that, at him.
Back to the room near 2:30, so today was a morning for sleeping in. Finally rolled out around lunchtime, and decided to walk on over to Salthill. It's a little resort town outside Galway. I had considered staying there, and really glad I stuck with the city center instead. There isn't alot out there beyond lots of vacation rentals, hotels and some cute looking eateries on a charming main drag. The beach walk is really nice, but after doing that, I was pretty much done. Caught the bus back into the center, and focused on catching up with this stuff over coffee.
Pretty much another day of relaxing, but you can bet I'll be back out again later tonight. Maybe Galway is just my night owl plan. The hotel is in a great location, and the town is super cute. I've got one more full day, and trying to decide if I want to do another day trip, vs hanging out around the town. Decisions, devisions. The tours are generally back about 5:00, so could continue to keep my Galway town time to the after hours just fine. Maybe I'll take it easy in Portrush, though with Dingle as an example, the beach towns don't guarantee and early bed time. I think the bar closing time is earlier Northern Ireland though, so just maybe I'll get a few more Zs before this is all done.
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